Leo Pargil Peak Expedition (6,791 m)

Leo Pargil Peak, also known as Reo Purgyil, is the highest mountain in Himachal Pradesh, standing at 6,791 meters in the Zanskar Range of the Western Himalayas. Located in the remote Kinnaur district near the Spiti Valley, it sits along the sensitive Indo–Tibet (China) border and dominates the skyline around villages such as Nako, Leo, and Kaurik. The peak is a true mountaineering objective rather than a trekking summit, involving glacier approaches, steep snow slopes, and ridge climbs that demand technical skills with ice axes, crampons, and ropes. Its first recorded ascent was made in 1899 by a British survey team, and since then it has remained a challenging climb requiring experience in high-altitude expeditions. Approaches usually begin from Nako village at around 3,600 meters, moving through the Yangthang valley to establish base camp and higher camps before attempting the summit. Climbs typically take 18 to 22 days from Delhi, with proper acclimatization and weather windows being critical. Because of its location on the international border, an expedition permit from the Indian Mountaineering Foundation is mandatory. The best climbing season is between June and September, when conditions are most stable. In short, Leo Pargil is a formidable Himalayan peak that combines natural beauty, technical difficulty, and geopolitical significance, making it one of India’s premier mountaineering challenges

Fitness Preparation Chart

Climbing Leo Pargil requires excellent fitness and stamina. Below is the recommended preparation:

6–8 Months Before Expedition

• Running / Cardio: 5–8 km, 4–5 times a week
• Strength Training: Squats, lunges, push-ups, pull-ups, deadlifts – 3–4 sessions/week
• Endurance Hikes: Weekend hikes with 8–12 kg backpack, gradually increasing altitude

3–4 Months Before Expedition

• Running Distance: 8–12 km, 4–5 times/week
• Strength & Core: Focus on legs, shoulders, and back for load carrying
• Stair Climbing: 1–2 hours with weighted backpack

1–2 Months Before Expedition

• Backpack Load Training: Carry 15–18 kg load on hikes
• High-Intensity Interval Training (HIIT): Improve oxygen efficiency
• Practice with Gear: Use boots, crampons, and harness during local hikes

Mental Preparation

• Yoga & meditation for focus and calmness
• Cold weather exposure training (if possible)